Monday, 28 September 2015

Kings Canyon

Kings Creek Station at sunset
Start of climb at Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon
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Well we still haven't made the Rock. Just a little detour to view Kings Canyon first.
One belief I need to clarify is that neither of these places are within a stones throw of Alice Springs. It was a good 5hour drive yesterday to get to Kings Canyon. Deciding to stay at Kings Creek Station meant we are still 45km from the Canyon anyway! However whilst the station is so remote and just miles of red sand and mulga - the quietness is amazing. It's not 5 star by any means but after looking at Kings Canyon Resort this morning - neither is it.
Sadly it's a full moon (99% I'd say Jen) so you don't get the beautiful stars at night but .....
Just a short walk from our spot in the Sand dunes is 'Tank Hill' which we walked up yesterday afternoon and enjoyed sunset on the mountains behind and the plains in front. Just beautiful.
This morning saw us up bright and early ready to tackle the rim walk at Kings Canyon. A small thanks to the group of campers nearby who took it upon themselves to wake us up.
Driving into the Canyon car park Rob & I were ready to turn around already. We could see some climbers as little dots working there way up to the top!
But we are hardier than that and donned our hiking boots and hats, backpack on and headed forth. A 6km walk which is rated moderate to hard which goes straight up the face of the canyon and then meanders right around the top and then a slightly easier route down to the start. Easy stuff - didn't we just see a 5yr old head off with her family.
Well lets say we think they gave her something to keep her going - we didn't hear a single complaint out of her (although we did pass them once we reached the top and left them to it).
The views are absolutely amazing. Such stunning scenery and lots of plaques to tell you about how it all formed and continues today. This is a must do if you can get the opportunity.
Once we reached the bottom we still had some energy so then completed the creek walk through the base of the canyon. Again beautiful scenery.
So what next - off to the Dingo Bar at Kings Canyon Resort for a celebratory drink and then home for a much needed rest!!

West MacDonnell Ranges

Simpsons Gsp
Ellery Creek Big Hole
Serpentine Girge
Our campsite Ormiston Gorge

After enjoying the East MacDonnell Ranges so much we set off the explore the west wondering if it could get any better.
First stop was Simpsons Gap. Beautiful spot although I have to say we were a wee over 'gaps' by now. We skipped Stanley's Chasm as we were too early in the day to get the best of this. Midday is the best time to view this spot.
We continued onto Ellery Creek Big Hole which surprisingly had water still in it, although a bit green for our liking there were others swimming in it.
Next stop was Serpentine Gorge which was a bit over-rated and as a word of warning the access road was one of the worst bits of gravel road we've been on so far.
Our next stop was Ormiston Gorge where we set up camp for the night. Now after a day of feeling a bit let down, this place really did deliver. The bird life was amazing and we even had a dingo walk right across in front of us. Rob cooked me a awesome roast dinner for my birthday and we sat back and enjoyed the stars and the quiet over a nice bottle of red. Yes a bottle - thought we would lash out. Cask wine has been the go since we set off on our journey as it travels safer but dam it is hard to buy in NT. apparently favorite drink of the locals and each town has restrictions on access. Alice Springs you can only buy 2 litres per person per day and only between 6pm and 9pm AND only at 2 outlets in town. Ahhhhhh
Anyway I digress. The next morning we were up bright & early to complete the Ormiston Pound walk which completes a circuit from the car park, meandering around scenic slopes, dropping into the flat expanse of the pound and returning along Ormiston Gorge via the main waterhole. A walk said to be 7km, 3-4 hours medium difficultly. Now our problem was we didn't decipher the description properly. Scenic slopes meant you should be a goat and returning via main waterhole meant you would spend over an hour an half scrambling over boulders & rocks. All said though it was a magnificent walk and we both enjoyed it so much (ps I clocked it and it was 9.2km - cannot trust NPWS)
Glen Helen was our next stop before heading back to Alice but to be honest after our walk we couldn't get any real enthusiasm up for it so just a quick look and back to town to get ready for the Rock!!

Monday, 21 September 2015

East MacDonnell Ranges

Emily Gap
Jessie Gap
Corroboree Rock
Trephina Gorge

Trephina Gorge

Our campsite
Rob enjoying the view

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After a couple of days in Alice Springs exploring we decided it was time to head out of town for a few days to check out the lessor viewed East MacDonnell Ranges. First stop was Emily Gap just a few km from town. A large natural gap in the ranges which has aboriginal art showcasing caterpillars from the dreamtime. Just another few km out is Jessie Gap which is similar but to a smaller scale.
Continuing on you come to Corroboree Rock which is an amazing single rock formation only a few metres wide. There is a lovely walk around the rock and some stunning background views.
Continuing on we arrived at Trephina Gorge Nature Park - what a beautiful bush setting and campspot.
We found a lovely spot to camp right next to a fire pit and just a short walk to a loo - what more could you ask for? Once settled in Rob and I set off to tackle the Gorge walk which takes you up on the top Eastern side overlooking the Gorge and surrounds. Certainly got our heart rate up!
After a trip out to gather firewood we settled in to enjoy a lovely night - good food, wine and a starlit night!
The next morning we headed off to do the Panorama Walk to the top of the western side. A bit more challenging but certainly worth the effort. The scenery here is so impressive we can hardly wait to see the rest.
We also took a drive out to Arltunga Historical Reserve which is the site of Central Australia's first town (due to gold rush). Amazing how some of the buildings have survived - mainly we are told due to the hot dry climate. The gold rush failed as did the town due to the lack of available water. So maybe there's still gold out there in them hills (and going by the number of people camping out there a lot think so).
We also enjoyed a stopover at the historical Ross River Homestead which was built in the late 1890's. Amazingly preserved.
After a second night of serenity lack of supplies sent us back to Alice to restock. Must be prepared for longer !!

Wildflower Season

View top Trephina Gorge



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Mum & Dad have always talked of doing the West coast in spring for all the beautiful flowers. Can I say that the area around Alice Springs does pretty well too. We've only just started and we're blown away by the types of wild flowers and how the rocky hilltops can look barren but when you get there they are a mass of plant types.
Below are some of what we saw at the top of Trephina Gorge. There is also wattle in full bloom everywhere.

Friday, 18 September 2015

Alice Springs

Tennant Creek telegraph station
Rob enjoying Devil's Mables
The Devil's Marbles - amazing rock formations & my photos don't do it justice
Barrow Creek Telegraph station
Cementry at Alice Springs Telegraph Station
Photo showing cementry in 
1902Just before Tennant Creek is the beautiful Telegraph Station & out building. This is to become a feature of our travels but it is wonderful to see them still standing and show casing European history.

We didn't stop in Tennant Creek itself. As the 5 largest town in NT we just didn't find it appealing. However 50km south are the Devils Marbles and we enjoyed walking around and viewing the different formations and learning about the rock. It has huge aboriginal significance as a meeting ground between numerous tribes and sitting in the cool beside one of the rocks we could see why. Sadly I don't think my photos do it justice.

Our next stop was Barrow Creek and apart from Peter Falcioni's murder in recent times, this small town (pub & telegraph station) has a gruesome history with regards to the Telegraph Station and in 2 separate incidents over 150 aboriginals were murdered by Europeans with no consequence. Buildings have been nicely kept and lots of information on the area.

Our next stop was Aileron which has 2 large statues - 1 on the top of the hill of an aboriginal man and 1 near the service station of an aboriginal women with a child & a Goanna. All very well done. But don't buy fuel here -$2.00/litre. Like most towns along the Stuart Highway this town is an aboriginal community and they are certainly ripping them off.
We also stopped at Ryan's Well and Glen Maggie Homestead.

Then finally Alice Springs!
Yesterday we spent the day looking around town and searching for the YWCA where I used to work. Ironically after a few hours walking around I realized that the vacant block we had parked on was all that was left of the building - so much for memory lane. We also checked out the AS Telegraph Station. Fantastically restored. Towards the end of its days as a Telegraph Station it became a home for aboriginal children and then when on to become a aboriginal settlement before being restored to its original state. They certainly built them to last. And so cool inside. Check out cemetery against photo from 1920's.
Local schools take the kids (around 10) on overnight stays to experience life as it was in the 1920's. Talking to a 20ish girl working in cafe and she said she had done it when she was little and loved the experience.

And we saw this gorgeous parrot - Lovely yellow ring around its neck.

Wednesday, 16 September 2015

Tennant Creek

The Pebbles at sunset - Tennant Creek
Another sunset shot
The Pebbles at Sunrise
It was a long day's drive from Katherine with little to look at until the last hour when we came into view of the ranges around Tennant Creek. The road is just straight and long! You get excited when there's a small curve in the road.
We decided to free camp at The Pebbles 17km north of Tennant Creek and what a great spot that was. 7km of gravel road seems to put most travelers off and we had our camp area all to ourselves. (There were 4 others all crowded together a good distance from us - they mustn't have liked the look of us thankfully).
It was just so peaceful and quiet. We enjoyed a beer watching the sun set through the clouds and then the beautiful stars later. We woke this morning to the same peace and a stunning sunrise over the pebbles. Our only disappointment was we didn't see the brown pebble mouse that is know to inhabit the area.
The Pebbles are a sacred aboriginal site based on women's initiations and we can see why it was important to them

Monday, 14 September 2015

Headed South

Gary & Jen 
Katherine River
Sadly our time traveling with Gary & Jen came to an end with Rob & I headed south to Alice Springs whilst Gary & Jen head west. We had a lovely last night together and a very sad farewell the next morning.
We made it to Katherine with no spare and Jenni from Bridgestone kindly fitted us in the same day. Sadly we needed 2 new tyres not just the 1 - oh well still a long way to go.
We enjoyed a night at the Big 4 and walk along the Katherine river before making an early exit for next stop - Tennant Creek.  Although must say the sign saying Kununurra was tempting!!

Sunday, 13 September 2015

Cooinda Lodge

Nourlangie escarpment
View Gun-warddeheardde lookout
Yellow River Cruise
Magpie geese
Yellow River
One of many crocs we saw
And another
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We arrived at Cooinda Lodge on Saturday morning and it's a lovely accommodation & tours run by local aboriginal group (although to be honest I've meet mostly Irish staff).
On the way here we stopped off at Nourlangie and did a walk past ancient aboriginal shelters & rock art plus a nice little climb to Gun-warddehwardde lookout with impressive views of the area.
Sunday morning saw us up bright and early for the Yellow Water Wetland / Birdwatching cruise. Not used to that early of a start but oh wow was it worth it. We saw so many beautiful birds with lovely Nikki, our guide, explaining what they were and any quirks they may have. But it should have been called a bird & croc watching tour as the waters were teaming with crocs of all sizes. With the sun just coming up they were swimming around in the waters and then as the cruise progressed we could see them sunning themselves on the banks. Thought we were going to see a couple of crocs have a fight but the smaller one backed down. One thing is for certain and that was no one put any limb out over the edge of the boat.
After breakfast we then headed out to Maguk Plunge Pool. We had been told that when the walk to the Plunge pool turns to cross the creek bed to look to our left for a little track and follow this for a couple of Km's to get to a lesser known top pool. Surprisingly we didn't get lost and the walk was worth it. 3 beautiful pools at the top of the waterfall and just amazing swimming in them.
Ahh well I guess back to the pool at Cooinda for a quiet afternoon !!